Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh: My Day at Sansam Kosal Pagoda and a Guide for Expats and Visitors
Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh is one of the most meaningful times of the year. The city gets quiet, many people go back to their home provinces, and some shops close. Then you see families in white clothes carrying food to the pagoda. This year I went to Sansam Kosal Pagoda with my dad. In this post I will share what Pchum Ben means, where it comes from, how long it lasts, and what my day looked like.
This year I went to Sansam Kosal Pagoda with my dad. In this post I will share what Pchum Ben means, where it comes from, how long it lasts, and what my day looked like. I will also give you some tips if you want to join.
What Is Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh?
Pchum Ben is a Khmer Buddhist festival to remember people who have passed away. Khmer people believe the spirits of their ancestors come back during this time. Some of these spirits are hungry and suffering. We cannot feed them directly, so families give food to the monks and pray. The good merit goes to the spirits.
The word “Pchum” means to gather. “Ben” comes from a word for a ball of rice. So the name means a gathering to offer food.
Some foreigners compare it to Christmas or Lunar New Year because families come together. But Pchum Ben is calmer. It is about respect for your parents, your grandparents, and the ancestors before them, even the ones you never met.
That is why Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh feels calm and personal, not loud like a party.
The History of Pchum Ben
Nobody knows the exact day Pchum Ben started. It comes from very old beliefs about feeding the dead, and historians connect it to old Indian traditions. When Buddhism became strong in Cambodia, these beliefs became part of the religion, and the festival grew into what we see today.
There is a famous Buddhist story behind it. A king saw his dead relatives suffering as hungry ghosts, and he asked the Buddha for help. The Buddha told him to give food to the monks and share the merit with the dead. That is why Khmer people give to the monks during Pchum Ben.
The festival also went through hard times. During the Khmer Rouge period, religion was banned and many pagodas were damaged or closed. People could not celebrate in public. After that time, Khmer people brought the tradition back. Today Pchum Ben is a national holiday, and the pagodas are full again. I think this part of the history is important for visitors to know.
How Long Is Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh?
Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh lasts 15 days, and it follows the Khmer lunar calendar.
Pchum Ben lasts 15 days. It follows the Khmer lunar calendar, so the dates change every year on the Western calendar. It usually falls in September or October. Check the official holiday dates each year, because they move.
Kan Ben: The First 14 Days
The first 14 days are called Kan Ben. During this time, people go to the pagoda on different days and bring food to the monks. Families often visit the pagodas connected to their ancestors, so people spread out across many days.
Kan Ben is not too crowded. If you want a calm visit, this is the best time to go. You can walk around easily, ask questions, and take your time.
Pchum Ben Day: The Big 15th Day
The 15th day is the main day, and it is the busiest. Many people go to the pagoda on this day, because it is the biggest day of the festival. Compared with Kan Ben, you will feel the difference right away. There are more families, more food, and more sound.
The public holiday usually lasts three days around this main day.
My Day at Sansam Kosal Pagoda for Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh
I went on Pchum Ben day with my dad. We arrived around 8:30 in the morning.
The first thing I noticed was the sellers. As soon as I arrived, they came to me to sell lotus flowers and to exchange money. Outside the pagoda you can also find fruit and desserts. So if you forget to bring something, do not worry. You can buy almost everything there.
My dad and I brought food, Sladork ( ស្លាដក់ ), and fruit for the monks. We also bought lotus flowers at the pagoda. Then we went inside.
Inside, the hall was full. Families sat together on the mats, and everyone was bringing food and offerings to the monks. The monks prayed, and their voices filled the hall. The smell of ផ្សែងធូប (incense smoke) was all around. Most people wore white.
There is also a place where people can do almsgiving (rap bat – រាប់បាត្រ). I did not do it this time, but I saw that it is part of the day for many people. Maybe next year I will try.
The best part for me was being there with my dad. We do not always talk about our ancestors or our culture. That day we sat together and took part in the tradition. I felt happy. It made me feel closer to my dad, and closer to Khmer culture too.
Tips for Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh
What to Wear
Wear modest clothes. Cover your shoulders and knees. White is common at the pagoda, but you do not have to wear it. Take off your shoes before you go inside the hall.
How to Behave
Be quiet and polite inside. Do not point your feet at the monks or the Buddha statues. Ask before you take photos of people who are praying. Women should not touch monks directly, so place offerings where the monk can take them.
Money and Offerings
Bring small bills in riel. If you need to exchange money, the sellers at the pagoda can help you. You can also buy lotus, fruit, and desserts there, so you do not need to prepare everything before you go.
When to Go
If you plan to join Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh, go in the morning, because it is cooler.
Go in the morning, because it is cooler. Choose a Kan Ben day for a calm visit, or the 15th day if you want to see the biggest day of the festival. Also buy groceries early, because some shops close during the holiday.
Final Thoughts
Pchum Ben in Phnom Penh is a Khmer festival that shows a lot about Khmer culture. It is about family, respect, and remembering the people before us. If you live in Cambodia or you are visiting, I think you should go to a pagoda and enjoy it. You will learn something new, and you may feel something too, like I did with my dad.
